Reinhold Messner is a great Italian Mountaineer and Explorer renowned for making the first solo ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen and for being the first climber to ascend all fourteen "eight-thousanders".
Born: Sep 17, 1944 in Brixen, Italy
Education: University of Padua (1967–1971)
Occupation: Mountaineer, adventurer, and explorer
Spouse: Sabine Stehle (m. 2009), Uschi Demeter Messner (m. 1972–1977)
Children: Anna Messner, Magdalena Messner, Làyla Messner, Gesar Simon Messner
Famous For: First solo ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen;
First to climb all 14 eight-thousanders
Awards: Patron's Gold Medal, Bambi - Lifetime Achievement
My goal is not just to get to the top, but to try to reach the summit with the shortest time and the least technical equipment, and to find new routes that no one has ever traveled before.
Danger is always an integral part of it (mountaineering)! Without the threat of life, adventure loses its meaning.
To climb solo doesn't just mean taking on the full responsibility of the individual, it also means that you're going to disappear in the world for a while, which allows me to listen to nature and meditate with all my heart.
Using an expansive rock cone is cheating, because it's not my personal strength.
Today nobody (is) using leather shoes. Only in this expedition we used this shoe.
The wonderful things in life are the things you do, not the things you have.
Mountains are not fair or unfair, they are just dangerous.
Reaching the summit of all 8,000-meter high mountains in the world is not worth my pride. All my successes are not worth my pride. There's only one thing I'm proud of, that is, I survived.
Born 1948 in Brixen of Bressanone, Italy, Reinhold Messner grown up in Villns in the South Tyrol. He has been climbing since he was just five years old. He spent the early years on climbing the Alps and fell in love with the Dolomites. Reinhold’s father, Josef Messner, was a teacher who was very strict and sometimes even severe with his little boy. Reinhold scaled to his first summit when he was 5 years old.
From 1950 to 1964, Reinhold made 500 ascents, which are mostly made in the Dolomites.
In 1964, Reinhold ascent the Ortler in a new direttissima route from the north face. In 1965, he ascended the Walker pillar on the Grandes Jorasses and scaled Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero.
In 1967, he became the first one to climb the northeast face of the Agner and the first person to made winter ascents of the north face of Agner and Furchetta.
In 1968, he made other two firsts: climb the middle pillar of Heiligkreuzkofel; ascended the Marmolata direct from the south face.
From 1969 to 1970, he joined an Andes expedition, together with Peter Habeler, becoming the fist to ascent the Yerupaja Chico (6121m). Later, he solo ascended the Droites form the north face, the Philip intersection on the Civetta and the Marmolata di Rocca from the south face.
With these achievements, Reinhold was reputed as one of the best climbers in Europe. Therefore, he was invited in 1970 to join an expedition at major Himalayan. This Himalayan expedition was regarded as one of his turning point in his climbing life.
The Eight-thoudanders Reinhold Messner Scaled
|1970||Nanga Parbat (8,125m)|
|1975||Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I) (8,080m)|
|1978||Mount Everest (8,848m), first to ascentd Mount Everest without supplementary oxygen.|
|Nanga Parbat (8,125m)|
|Nanga Parbat: first solo ascent of 8000er from base camp|
|1980||Mount Everest (8,848m), first to ascend alone and without supplementary oxygen during the monsoon|
|1982||Kangchenjunga (8,586m), Gasherbrum II (8,034m), Broad Peak (8,051m) and also failed summit attempt on Cho Oyu during winter|
|1983||Cho Oyu (8188m)|
|1984||Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I) (8,080m), Gasherbrum II (8,034m), at one time without returning to base camp|
|1985||Annapurna (8,091m), Dhaulagiri (8,167m)|
|1986||Makalu (8,485m), Lhotse (8,516m)|
In 1978, Reinhold Messner climbed Mount Everest with Peter Habeler to the top of Mount Everest, becoming the first men to climb Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen. They were both menmbers in an expedition led by Wolfgang Nairz and the ascent was from the southeast ridge of Mount Everest. And Reinhard Karl, who also joined this expedition, became the first German to scale the Mount Everest with supplemental oxygen.
In 1980, On August 20, Messner ascended to the top of Mount Everest again. He made the solo ascent without supplementary oxygen from the northeast ridge route in Tibet to the summit.
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